Section Overview
This section marks the transition from the open chalk downs of the west to the wooded, rolling landscape of the Chilterns. Leaving the Thames Valley at Streatley, the trail climbs steadily into the hills and barely descends again until Watlington, offering an entirely different character from the first three sections of the trail.
Beech woods, chalk grassland, ancient earthworks, and quiet country lanes define this stretch. While it lacks a single showstopper monument, the cumulative effect — the dappled woodland light, the distant views across Oxfordshire, the sense of moving from one England into another — makes it one of the most atmospheric sections on the whole route.
Starting from Streatley & Goring
The twin villages of Streatley and Goring sit on opposite banks of the Thames, linked by a bridge. Both offer excellent facilities: cafés, pubs, restaurants, shops, and accommodation. There is also a railway station at Goring, making this an ideal place to begin or end a day's walking.
The trail leaves Streatley heading east, immediately beginning the long climb into the Chilterns. The ascent is sustained but not steep, and the views back over the Thames Valley open up quickly behind you.
Into the Chiltern Hills
The Chilterns are an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and this section offers a fine introduction to their character. Ancient beech woods — part of a continuous woodland cover stretching back thousands of years — alternate with open chalk grassland and wide views across the Oxfordshire plain to the north.
The trail is well waymarked throughout but the Chilterns can feel more complex to navigate than the open downs of the west, with more junctions and enclosed paths. Pay attention to acorn waymarkers at path junctions.
Grim's Ditch
Grim's Ditch is an Iron Age linear earthwork that the Ridgeway follows for a significant stretch in this section. The raised bank and ditch remain clearly visible in places, preserved by the woodland that has grown up around them. The earthwork likely served as a territorial boundary in the late Iron Age or Romano-British period, though its precise purpose is debated.
The name “Grim” is derived from an Old English word for the devil — the Saxons attributed any inexplicably large earthwork to supernatural construction. It appears at several points along the eastern Ridgeway.
Nuffield Place
Nuffield Place, a National Trust property just off the trail near Huntercombe, was the former home of William Morris, 1st Viscount Nuffield — the founder of Morris Motors, one of Britain's most significant industrial figures of the 20th century. The house is preserved as it was when Morris lived there and is open to visitors on selected days. Worth a short detour if you have time.
Watlington White Mark
The approach to Watlington is heralded by the striking Watlington White Mark, a large triangular notch cut into the chalk hillside above the town in 1764 by a local landowner, Edward Horne. The White Mark was originally created as a visual trick — when viewed from the town, it appears to extend the tower of St Leonard's Church into a steeple. The actual mark is large enough to walk across and is visible for miles around.
Arriving at Watlington
Watlington is a small market town with a pleasant high street, several pubs, cafés, and accommodation options. The town has a twice-hourly bus service to Wallingford and Oxford. See our Accommodation page for places to stay in this section.